Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Bilbao, Spain





To most of us, Bilbao means Gehry's Guggenheim.  I have always reserved judgement on the aesthetics of the building and site.  But I was overwhelmed and converted as St. Paul was by lightning upon seeing it.  It is absolutely beautiful inside and out as is the entire site.  It is said to have taken inspiration from the opening of petals on a flower, which makes sense.  Otherwise I could not understand an architect coming up with such a unique design.  But seeing it, one wonders how to put idea on paper to be followed by builders, how to convince city fathers of a v. traditional city to accept this exquisite heap of titanium junk at a huge cost in their nice city, then to actually succeed in getting it built, and amazingly to leave it alone and not alter the site nor building once it was completed.
I had long wondered how the galleries fit and if they were effective in such an odd scheme.  They are.
I cannot explain The collection problem with this or other Guggenheims, but the Irwin Unger book The Guggenheims provides the best explanation of the matter.
On the second photo from the top, you will see a beautiful blue glass 40 Storey office tower by Cesar Pelli.  It is wonderful to see how comfortably this huge tower opened in 2012, fits into the low rise and traditional Basque city.

Biarritz

Biarritz is justly famous for its spectacular coastline.  I think it is actually more dramatic than Monaco, although the scene is similar.  The May weather was however, bitterly cold with a strong wind with the result that the beaches and town were abandoned by all but about 50 enthusiastic surfers.
Prices were fairly breathtaking.  One of the grand hotels along the beach had a restaurant offering salmon and another fish ala carte at $103.00 each.  I know fish is scare today, but...

France & Spain, May, 2013

Conclusions   There are no roses without thorns.  So many things have changed since I first travelled some of these places and Europe in '64.  The roads are far safer and much faster.  I did not see any of the old suicide roads which were three lanes with a joint passing (permanent Chicken game) lane down the middle.  The many toll roads are mostly six lanes and mostly driven at 85-95 MPH.
The new version of Hell is how foreigner learns the huge complexities of the toll payment systems.  You suddenly drive up upon a toll plaza of many little booths/stations with green lights over them and symbols of something or other.  Behind you is a nation of tiny little minds who do the same thing every boring day of their wretched lives at these tolls, and are just dying for a slowpoke alien who does not know the symbols and system so they can blow their tops, honk, spin and shout.
Finally, you begin to figure out the system; which green light to drive under, where to put the ticket, see what you owe, to put the coins, and the bills and get the gate to lift.  Then you drive comfortably up to the next plaza and sometimes find that it is different than what you so carefully learned earlier.  Or worse, you arrive in Spain where the mechanisms are quite different while horns blare and shouts seeking to rip off your nether parts come from the rear.
For example, most of France has a familiar  and highly visible basket to toss coins into.  But Spain has a practically invisible black cup high up so you often have to move the car forward to get to it where you throw coins.  But nothing happens, except that horns honk behind you impatiently.  Eventually you realize that the nearly invisible black cup has a more invisible little black hinged lid, which would like to be shut to complete the coin transaction, and then things do happen.
When I travelled in Europe in the early 60s, hotels were $3 for 3 star and $5 for four star although somewhat higher in Paris.  Now the rooms are so tiny.  The first room I had in Paris would cost $525 today - based on size (it even had a non-working fireplace).  But I must say that now all rooms have actual hot water, heat, some have AC, TV, phone, wifi, etc. and based on supply & demand, I think the prices are almost low.
It does amaze me how much the Accor Brands have come to dominate so much of the Euro hotel market with Ibis, Mercure, Novotel, etc.  I loved Novotels in Dubai, Vientiane, and Hong Kong for example, but they are awfully expensive in France and Spain.  I did stay in several Ibis just because they were what was available.  They are so clean and modern and well-priced, but it seemeth me that it is never a good thing when you open your room door and it always collides with the bed.
Worse, there are now several kinds of Ibis, so when I arrived in Bordeaux and followed the statement in the booking drivel on the site saying hotel visible from St. Jean train station and walked through the driving rain, I found that I was at the wrong Ibis.  I went as directed just down the street to one with a sign reading Ibis styles, but they said non, non, non, go a few blocks more and then around the corner.  Alas, only a helicopter could have possible seen that far off Ibis from the station.
Air France:  I booked AF to get away from Air Canada.  Admittedly the AF stews are mostly prettier,  all nicer, younger and often 50 lbs lighter than AC flock of human-haters.  But, AF like most of the major carriers have turned to these much touted slim seats, which have allowed them to cram more passengers on flights.  The seats are cheap junk seemingly made by Ikea and based on a lawn chair design covered in fabric  Walmart rejected for use.  The seats klunk, klunk when moved and after 30 minutes of sitting, I guarantee your backside is begging for mercy.
Then they bring food - a term I use loosely here.  We had a choice of Shepherd's pie (honest) or badly congealed pasta, plus a tiny block of Kraft cheese, etc. on Air France.  Terrible airline - never again.  But I must say that coming home, they did get the baggage up from a fully loaded B 777 in 15-20 minutes instead of AC's constant 45-60 minutes.
One of the joys of Europe is not having to constantly see herds of hideously disfigured people covered in tattoos, with cheap junk metal things sticking out of their faces, and goat turd plugs in their ears.  I do not know what has happened to North America to turn us into the white trash of the world.  Like it or not, I am here to tell you that the corollary of all this is graffitti, trash everywhere and either no manners at all or bad manners.  Bilbao was pristine in every way and people were so attractive and mannerly.  Do you know that there are men in Europe whose wardrobe does not consist of a collection of blue jeans and T-shirts?  Yes, it is true.
There is some surprise here that there is such a reaction to gay marriage there.  I have been to many places in the world and must advise you that throughout history, and even now, there are a lot of people and places where two men wishing to enjoy sodomy just do it without a parade, a flag, protests, or even being assigned or adopting a name for what happens.  I realize the regrettable legal aspect of why some form of contract is necessary, but I so do despise hearing that some 14 year -old boy has declared his is gay or the non-stop media mention of it whenever they happen to not be saying social media twitter facebook.
I personally think travel in Europe is over, cooked, done.  Way too many people.  I think it may be nicer to travel in the U.S. now - less expensive, less crowded, many nice places to visit.