Monday, September 22, 2014
Chateau Chenonceaux & the madness of Cinq Mars feudal castle
You have seen images of this chateaux in almost every brochure on France. It dates from about 1547 and sits comfortably astride the river Cher. The steepled section to the right of the photo is the living quarters. The long section over the river is actually referred to as the Gallery, where great parties and dinners took place. The covered bed to the side of the giant fireplace was used by a real queen - who as all of them at that time, was a v. short person according to the length of the bed.
But the remarkable story of this chateaux is that this river was the dividing line between Nazi occupied France and Free France. The old caretaker had the keys to open the closed castle, but the Nazis never knew that. As a result, he used to sneak many Jews across (from the right side of the photo to the forest on the left), through the lower gallery to safety.
It is a beautiful place and the drive there is equally wonderful.
Above is the Feudal castle of Cinq Mars (usual trans. would be March 5th). The guides to chateaux and even road signs indicate some that are mere ruins as La Pile. I knew that but wanted to see why a castle would be so named. I drove up to a tiny parking lot on a heavily forested steep hill. I went to the huge wooden doors, which were locked. I shook them a little, tried the handle and decided they were closed. At my car, about to start the engine, there was a knock on the window and there appeared a Gnome in a bright red -albeit faded - shirt with a fine set of factory-made teeth.
Thrice he spake to me You didn't ring the bell, you didn't ring the bell, you didn't ring the bell. To which I replied, Oh, I didn't ring the bell?? !! And of course there WAS a bell above eye level . He hauled me in and was a v. nice and intelligent man. He introduced me to his wife - although they only ever referred to each other with a grimace and him or her, pointing appropriately.
He suddenly had more guests to deal with and told me she spoke good English and would guide me. She was probably my age, wiry with fly away, well-out-of-control, gray hair, and really bright and well informed. She said that she had an aeronautical engr. degree (had to have been from the Wright bros.), as did He, but she followed her's up with a M.A. in sociology (Say what ???), but in truth, now they were both ardent arborists - and I might add, dang good ones too.
She gave me a 20 minute detailed history of the castle. The original owner hit hardship - remember this was in the XI C. - and went broke owning it. As far as I can understand that is what happened to every owner for the next thousand years including the current aeronautical arborists.
I loved this description on the internet: ...with its towers, moat and fortifications, it remained unspoilt until the XVth. The Marquis de Cinq-mars, favourite of Louis XIII was kilt (sic) at the age of 22 because he plotted against Richelieu.
I am v. fond of trees and she showed me their three sequoia trees, two of which seed's came from California in about 1840 and one from China (but must have originated on the U.S, west coast).
And finally, Cinq mars has nothing to do with March 5th, but is believed to be a mash up of some old French language religious terms.
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