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When I told friends I would be visiting Naples, all sighed, or grimaced as though I was doomed to a ghastly fate they were aware of, but, of which I was apparently ignorant.
I have read that it takes a few days to become accustomed to Naples, and I would say that is accurate. So many towns and cities like Paris and most of France, Assisi, and much of Rome, have been sand blasted out of the centuries of coal burning darkness into an almost Disneyland level of white virginity. Naples is NOT one of those cities. It retains it coal blackened dignity everywhere. It is also massively vandalized by graffiti. I like the great double doors of old buildings intended for horse drawn vehicles to pass through. One shown below is of the very most beautiful wood and design, and even that has been repeatedly vandalized. Even all church doors are covered in spray paints.
The church interior was just a neighbourhood church near my Naples hotel. I happened by as the sun hit parts of the altar and it looked as though a miracle might have happened somewhere, but it was only the sun, I guess.
An amusing aspect is that Italians north of Sicily and North of Naples, say in each case that They are different countries. WE are not like them at all. Historically, they have a point or two. Today, they are referring to the somewhat madness of Naples. It is painfully noisy mostly because the really narrow streets, sidewalks and close walls of the city that are stone or masonry. The sounds of motorcycles, trucks and humans echoing is unforgettable.
Traffic is constantly spoken of as dreadful in so many cities, but Naples is somewhat of a special case.I think the polite term would be bonkers. I could not believe the ambulances with ear destroying sirens screaming and red lights flashing to which few cars would ever yield. I watched in disbelief a van with large markings reading: Human organ transplants enroute and not one car would yield to that van. It was a situation of merging lanes and the emergency vehicle was trying to turn left into a lane, but cars kept pushing tightly in front of the van. I saw several other ambulances in the same situation where they might as well shut off their lights and sirens as they were getting no respect.
The streets also run in odd directions and constantly have names like Via San Giovanni di Spaccanapoi of last year's pasta in the refrigerator under the cheese or similar long names. I read of one traveller who drove 4 hours from Assisi to Naples and then spent four hours driving around Naples to first find his hotel and then a parking place.
Lastly, pedestrians have their own special contribution which seems based on the Vietnam or Indonesian model. To cross traffic where there are no lights or zebra lines, just start walking and vehicles will probably not hit you. It worked for me. This method infuriates nasty and selfish drivers and especially motorbikers who do notwish to slow down for anything at all, ever.
During the entire trip I never once feared for my security. When I asked friends who said they feared crime in Naples to name the problem, they would respond "pickpockets." I personally do not see pickpockets as "crime." Men so dumb as to wear a fat wallet on their butts do not deserve my sympathy. They are male Kardashians. They also usually carry every piece of i.d. and credit cards they own in the same place and are shocked when it all disappears.
My first hotel was near the Port and it is an area - like most of Naples - said to look gritty. My second hotel was only half a kilometer away, right next to the large university, and at first glance, it was solid graffiti everywhere, trash generously spread around and seedy to say the least. Yet, it was a perfectly safe area full of families and children.
The Hotel was the Decumani, Hotel di Charme. It was built in the 17th C. and was the residence of the last Archbishop of Naples in the Bourbon kingdom. The rooms are all renovated and it is modern and comfortable. There are a number of aspects of the original building, one of which is a grand ballroom where breakfast is served.
Like neighbourhoods in major cities, I am sure there is some crime there. One thing I saw really surprised me. A block from my hotel, there was a Smart car parked. Most of the external door panel on the passenger side was missing - the centre broken out and missing. I looked closely and previously had no idea that Smart car are all plastic. Every exterior panel of that car was about three-eights thick plexiglass - or whatever it they used but it is plastic.
The streets are often more like alleys - only 12' wide. People leave their doors and windows open for ventilation in apartments are that remarkably tiny. That often make for nice compositions that the interloper cannot resist photographing.
The Palace of Capodimonte
This is now the most important art gallery and collection in Naples.
By the way, Capodimonte means "Top of the hill," not "tiresome junk sold on Home shopping channel." This handsome palace was built for Charles VII, King of Naples around 1738. It houses some imporatnt works of art today, but many rooms have been left in the original state with furniture and decorations.
Above is The saint removing a thorn from the paw of a lion - a favourite of mine for years and I was so happy to see the original. I do not know the significance, but the lion is staring hard directly at the viewer. The peasant boy playing his flute is assisted by his dog which is howling in harmony. Dogs are common in religious works of the period as symbols of loyalty to their masters (Jesus, in fact).
Naples is a fascinating city, and importantly the gateway to the Amalfi coast.
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