Palermo
My main interest in Palermo was the opera. Madame Butterfly is not a favourite of mine, but I wanted to experience an opera in that famous house. I did. One of the reasons that should be obvious I guess, about why opera is seldom performed in the great opera houses of Europe during the hot summer months is that the old houses are not air conditioned, and being vertical interiors, the people in the rings must tolerate very high temperatures.
The night I was there, I was in the 2nd ring and it was well over 30 C. The performance was good, although Butterfly is one of the operas in which much of the audience tolerates two hours of just o.k. music for the final one minute in which the soprano sings one of the greatest of all arias. On this night, the star soprano sang well throughout, but when it came to the soaring finale, she missed the High C. I was disappointed, but felt sorry for her as she had otherwise doing just fine.
Grand hotel et des Palmes
This is a kind of amusing story. This huge and limbering 19th C. hotel was The hotel, grand ballroom, and several restaurants of Palermo and Sicily for many decades. Being Palermo, people think Mob(s), but just visiting Sicily it is hard to find any trace of this aspect. But in 1957, Lucky Luciano allegedly organized a Mob summit at the des Palmes which all the major thugs of the time attended. No word remains of their menu.
Now those days are far in the past. The lobby is dark, the hallway carpets are a mess, many of the hallway walls make then new arrival feel as though he chose the wrong hotel. But the rooms are large - 3x most hotel room sizes of today. They all have been nicely renovated and have the best possible large marble bathrooms and every convenience.
Breakfast is held in the former grand ballroom. It is one of those now-hollow and almost tacky places one would like to duty the necessary duty and get out of fast. But the desk staff are highly trained professionals. They won my greatest respect for their kindness. I mentioned to the evening clerk that I would be leaving too early in the morning for breakfast, and he immediately said, "Oh then we will prepare a basket for you to take along, Just ask for it when you check out in the morning." And so it was. A beautifully organized and prepared breakfast in a bag, which included 13 items. I was very impressed.
Otherwise, Palermo is just a pedestrian old city with a large port and handsome opera house.
Syracuse
I visited several cities between Palermo and Syracuse mainly to see ruins. But the ruins I was most excited by were in Syracuse itself.
Most of the ruins are down inside of or at the edge of a very old quarry. I have not been able to find any information of when the quarry operated, but by the ages of the trees, I would guess it must have been 18th and 19th C.
There are a few caves and one resembles an ear. It is referred to as Orecchio Dionisio, or Ear of Dionysus. Look closely at the bottom of the photo and you will see the size of people compared with the size of the cave opening. It curves around inside and seems to run back 60 feet or more.
At the top left of the bottom photo is a cone shaped tower. That is actually a holy site. On tope (not shown) is a tiny statue of the Virgin Mary and the cone is one of her teardrops. A lot of pilgrims visit the site.
Syracuse is an attractive and comfortable city. There is a small island just across a bridge from Syracuse named Ortygia which is attractive. Now it is a major tourist attraction, and is mainly restaurants and shops.
As you might expect, this area is visited by a lot of large yachts. The Moonlight II is one of the largest, and is harboured in Syracuse waiting for charters. There are a lot of great interior photos on the internet. It is 280 feet in length and recently was sodl. The asking price was 85.000,000.00 Euros. One of the locals said that a full tak of petrol cost $750,000.
One photo above I took from the internet. But on the bottom one in the Port, just behid the orange barriers those little things are men working.
I had one of the finest hotels of the trip in Syracuse; the Grand Alfeo Albergo is so attractive and comfortable, wonderfully designed and has a professionally trained desk staff you wish every hotel had. If you are in Siracusa, you should try to stay there.
One photo above I took from the internet. But on the bottom one in the Port, just behid the orange barriers those little things are men working.
I had one of the finest hotels of the trip in Syracuse; the Grand Alfeo Albergo is so attractive and comfortable, wonderfully designed and has a professionally trained desk staff you wish every hotel had. If you are in Siracusa, you should try to stay there.
Catania
Catania was a surprisingly pleasant city in which to spend a day. It had beautiful piazzas, streets and historical buildings.
Bellini was one of the greatest opera composers - many think THE greatest composer. Catania has this beautiful small house with the name Teatro Bellini in the white marble at the top. They were currently playing is most famous and loved work, Norma. That opera is currently being performed in Toronto with one of the greatest sopranos alive - Sondra Radvanovsky - and is by far, the most important cultural event of the year here. A Globe & mail reporter recently compared her performance as almost equal to that of Maria Callas - a comparison so strong that none of the people I know have ever heard such a statement. I will know better in three days when we attend.
The Bellini opera house in Catania
Bellini was one of the greatest opera composers - many think THE greatest composer. Catania has this beautiful small house with the name Teatro Bellini in the white marble at the top. They were currently playing is most famous and loved work, Norma. That opera is currently being performed in Toronto with one of the greatest sopranos alive - Sondra Radvanovsky - and is by far, the most important cultural event of the year here. A Globe & mail reporter recently compared her performance as almost equal to that of Maria Callas - a comparison so strong that none of the people I know have ever heard such a statement. I will know better in three days when we attend.
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